GS500 Modifications
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GS500K3 (’03-MODEL) 19-17 IGNITION SYSTEM DESCRIPTION The fully transistorized ignition system consists of a signal generator, ignitor unit, ignition coils and spark plugs. The signal generator mounted at the right end of the crankshaft comprises the rotor tip and pickup coil. Get the best deals on Motorcycle Electrical & Ignition Switches for Suzuki GS500E when you shop the largest online selection at eBay.com. Free shipping on many items Browse your favorite brands affordable prices.
The GS500 does not have as many aftermarket parts availablefor it as most sport bikes, but there are still many trick parts around if youknow where to look and also unlike other sport bikes there is little how to infoout there on the web.
The pages to the left contain info and pictures of some of theitems you can buy or modifications you can make to your GS. Some pages areHow To's other are just informative.
Suzuki Gs500 Ignition Advancer
If you have a modification or how to that you made and want to shareinstall tips, a review and photos of your work please drop us a note. Wewant mod info! Please consider contributing.
Current Modification info pages:
Making Fork Spacers
Fenderectomy
Reflectorectomy
ShortenSignal Stalks
Ignition Advancer
Do It YourselfTiming Advance
SpecII Full Fairing Info
Spec II Fairing Page -anothersubmission
Targa Fairing &Air Dam Info
Vance & Hines ExhaustInfo
InstallingSV650 Rear Pegs on the GS500
Installing a Cigarette Lighter
RepaintingYour Exhaust
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How ToPages
for info on basic maintenance items
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Do It Yourself TimingAdvance
| By Mike Trovero |
If you can't find a Vance & Hines ignitionadvancer (because availability is very spotty ) there is another option-doing it yourself.. This is not a hard project to undertake and therewards will be the same bit of low end power as found with the Vance &Hines advancer. Many people have done this modification without incident.
A hot and rainy summer day project
You will need:Gs500 Ignition Advance Battery
- Your favorite GS500e.
- Phillips screw driver.
- Racket wrench or equivalent + 10 mm and 7 mm sockets.
- 19 mm box wrench.
- Vernier caliper or equivalent measuring device.
- Dremel tool or small round file.
- Pliers.
- Wite-out pen or indelible marker.
- Pen and paper.
- Hammer (optional.)
- Mosquito repellent and mosquito plant (optional.)
| You will work on the right side of the bike, facing the brake pedal. I swear it wasn't me who did those scratches on the cover. | |
| Remove the seat and disconnect the negative pole of the battery | |
| Remove the three bolts of the rotor cover with the 7 mm socket | |
| Remove the two screws that hold the rotor plate in place. | |
| While holding the rotor with the 19 mm wrench, remove with the 10 mm socket the bolt that holds it. | |
| This is a view of the other side of the rotor. Mine had a little notch in the keyway, although it cannot be seen in this picture. I wonder how that happened | |
| Unscrew the electrical contacts, remove them, including the magnets, and open the clip that holds the wires. | |
| You want to rotate the place counter-clockwise by 5º. With an indelible marker, draw an arrow in the direction that you want to turn it so that you don't get confused later. I found that my marker was not as indelible as it claimed to be, so later I used Wite-Out. | |
| The distance between the center of the two holes is 7 cm. That means that 5º is equivalent, at the level of the screw holes, to (5*70mm*pi)/360 = 3.05 mm. Measure with the vernier caliper a distance of 3 mm from the screw holes in the direction opposite to which you want to turn the ignition plate, and mark it with the marker. See the two little black marks near the holes? Note that this picture shows the back of the plate, so that the arrow is pointing clock-wise. | |
| Remove the clip on the front of the plate. On a sheet of paper, take a blue-print of the plate, and mark the point that you want to file up to on the blue print too, so that you can compare it later in case the marks you made on the plate get deleted. Don't ask how I figured this out. Now, using a your favorite grinding tool, start filing the slots. A dremel tool would be very helpful since the metal is thick and hard. I don't have one (it's on the Christmas list though,) so I used a small file. It took me about 1 hr. Remember to measure often and compare to your blue-print. | |
| In the picture on the left you see the plate once finished. Notice how the holes are slotted now, and compare it to the blueprint on the paper sheet. The last thing to do is to bend the clip for the wires. This is actually what took me the longest time. Filing it is not an option because the side is too thin. I used the hammer at first and then bent the two little feet with pliers. Now put everything back together. Before installing the cover, start the bike and make sure that the rotor is turning freely and does not hit anything. While you're on that side of the bike, check the level of your oil also. Don't forget that the bike must be on the centerstand, or else you may overfill it. Not that I have ever done that... | |
Photo and supplemental info submitted by Emmett Lyman Mark the plate and the metal it screws to for orientation purposes. I held a screwdriver overlapping both pieces and gave it a whack. It shows you how the plate originally lined up. If you measure 5 degrees and put another mark on the plate, you can line it up with the other mark to ensure that you don't accidentally overshoot 5 degrees. | |
Q. 'Does it work?' Q. 'I see, but in terms of horsepower?' Q. 'Ok, but in terms of seat-of-the-pants-type horsepowers?' Thanks to Martin, Srinath and the other folks on the board at www.gstwin.com for helping out with directions. | |