Hohner Professional Guitar Serial Numbers

Auction Starts at $.99! Hohner HW03 3/4 Sized Steel String Acoustic Guitar Hohner student guitars are a prefered choice for music educators and students worldwide. The HW03 is crafted with a Spruce top and Basswood back and sides. The 3/4 scale is designed and recommended for players between the ages of 8-12. Hohner Professional Guitars. This is a fan based page celebrating the brand 'Hohner Professional' guitars. If a serial number is not in the lists or is not recognized in the serial number decoder, it does not mean that the guitar is a fake. Conversely, it is of course no guarantee whether the guitar is authentic, as a serial number is easy to copy. Example of a Gibson serial number: A real serial number is stamped dark on the back of the headstock.

The serial is probably on the neckplate - these are hefty cast metal with the Hohner Pro logo & stamped on serial number. A C prefix will almost.

Hohner Guitars

Hohner has been making moderately priced acoustic guitars since the 1970s. Beginning players favor them for their inexpensive pricing and solid construction. Playing a Hohner guitar has at least one major disadvantage, however--It's impossible for a Hohner owner to tell for certain when the guitar was made. Unlike other guitar makers that use specifically coded serial numbers to signify a guitar's month and date of production, no such system exists for Hohner guitars. Dating a Hohner guitar requires the owner to describe the instrument in detail and ask the company to estimate the date of manufacture.

Describe your guitar in writing. Note whether its strings are nylon or steel and note the body style. Dreadnaught acoustic guitars, for example, curve out from both sides of the neck, while a cutaway curves downward on one side. Write down the model name (this may be in a pamphlet, or even on the price tag from the store.) Also note whether the guitar contains a pickup for amplification.

Photograph key parts of your guitar. Guitars distinguish themselves in several areas: the headstock (where the tuners turn the strings), the bridge (which attaches the strings to the body), and the inlays (the dots, diamonds or other markings on the fretboard.) Make sure the photographs show as much detail as possible. Take several, and take them up close.

Mail the photos and written description to Hohner. If you hand-wrote your notes and took hard-copy pictures, enclose them in an envelope and address them to Hohner Inc., with a note saying you wish to determine how old your guitar is. The address is 1000 Technology Park Drive, Glen Allen, VA 23059-4500.

Send the photos and notes electronically. If you took the pictures digitally, attach them to the body of an email along with the written description of your guitar and a short note saying you would like to determine your guitar's date of manufacture. The email address is webinfo@hohnerusa.com

Information gathered from the web:

Serial numbers on Yamaha guitars repeat every ten years due to the way they are formed.

The first letter indicates the last digit of the year of production. (Their numbering system began with “H” for 1.)

The second letter indicates the month.

The first two numbers indicate the day of the month.

The last three numbers represent order of production on the day the guitar was made.

Example: hm02316 = the 316th unit made on June 2 of 1961, 1971, 1981, 1991, or 2001.

A lot of people have written in to say, “Hey! My Yamaha serial number looks nothing like this!” To you folks, we offer the following: Several other serial number configurations used by Yamaha over the years. If you still can’t figure it out, please see Yamaha contact info at the bottom of this page.

Alternate serial number configurations for Yamaha Classical and Acoustic Guitars

Custom Shop, Made in Japan, 1966-1985:
001-1042 in sequence

Custom Shop, Made in Japan, 1986-1990:
Letter-####, like so: J7012.
The letter at the beginning represents the month, so J would be March (see chart above).
The number following the letter is the year, in this case 7 for 1987.
The last three numbers indicate unit number. 012=12th unit.

Custom Shop, Made in Japan, 1991-1996:
Letter-letter-###-letter, like so: HP213J.
Using the charts, we see that H=1991 and P=September. 213=unit number; and that last letter is an internal code.

Custom Shop, Made in Japan, 1997-2003:
Letter-letter-###, like so: NK333.
Using the chart, N=1997 and K=April. The three numbers are again, unit number. Unit number 333 in this case.

Hohner Professional Guitar Serial Numbers Identification

Custom Shop, Made in Japan, 2004-:
Letter-letter-letter-###-letter, like so: QLY111C.
Q=0 and L=5, so 2005. Y=November. 111 is the unit number; and the final letter is an internal code.

Yamaha Music Craft, Made in Japan, 1997-1999:
Letter-letter-###-letter, like so: ON521J. (That first letter is an “oh” not a zero.)
The first letter is the year; O=1998. The second letter is the month; N=July. The three numbers are the unit number; this started over each month at 500, so unit number 21. The final letter is an internal code.

Yamaha Music Craft, Made in Japan, 1999:
Letter-letter-###, like so: PM222.
The first letter is the year; P=1999. Second letter is the month; M=June. The last three numbers are the unit number. During 1999, they starting the count each month at 200 rather than 500. (See previous entry for Yamaha Music Craft for more on the numbering.)

Yamaha Music Craft, Made in Japan, 2001-:
Letter-letter-letter-###-letter, like so: QIL123A.
The first two letters are the year; Q=0 and I=2, so 2002. The third letter is the month; L=May. The three numbers are the unit number; 123. The final letter is an internal code.

Tenryu/Wada Factory, Made in Japan, 1946-1968:
#####. 12233. Just five digit numbers in sequence. No year of manufacture can be determined.

Tenryu/Wada Factory, Made in Japan, 1969-1984:
######. Six numbers, like so: 710502.
The first two numbers are the year. In this case 1971. The second two numbers are the month; here, May. The final two numbers are the unit number.

Hohner Professional Guitar Serial Numbers Lookup

Tenryu/Wada Factory, Made in Japan, 1985-1986:
######. Six numbers like so: 860021.
The first two numbers are the year; 1986. The last four numbers are the unit number; 21.

Kaohsiung Factory, Made in Taiwan, 1971-2001:
########. Eight numbers, like so: 10918111.
The first number is the year; 1971. The second and third numbers are the month; 09=September. The fourth and fifth numbers are the day; 18th. The final three numbers are the unit number; 111.

Kaohsiung Factory, Made in Taiwan, 2001-:
Letter-letter-letter-######. Three letters, six numbers, like so: QIM183112.
The first two letters are the year; Q=0 and I=2, so 2002. The third letter is the month. M=June. The first two numbers are the day; 18th. The final four numbers are the unit number; 3112.

YMMI (Yamaha Music Manufacturing Indonesia), Made in Indonesia, 1990-1996:
########. Eight numbers, like so: 20918022.
The first number is the year; 1992. The second and third numbers are the month; 09=September. The fourth and fifth numbers are the day; 18th. The last three numbers are the unit number; 22.

YMMI, Made in Indonesia, 1997-1999:
#########. Nine numbers, like so: 803180011.
The first number is the year; 1998. The second and third numbers are the month; March (03). The fourth and fifth numbers are the day; 18th. The last four numbers are the unit number; 11.

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Hohner Professional Guitar Serial Numbers List

YMMI, Made in Indonesia, 2000-:
##########. Ten numbers, like so: 0002180013.
The first two numbers are the year; 00=2000. The third and fourth numbers are the month; 02=February. The fifth and sixth numbers are the day; 18th. The last four numbers are the unit number; 13.

YMMI, Made in Indonesia, 2001-:
Letter-letter-letter-######, like so: QIM180013.
The first two letters are the year; Q=0 and I=2, so 2002. The third letter is the month; June (see chart above.) The first and second numbers (following the 3 letters) are the day; 18th. The final four numbers are the unit number; 13.

Alternate serial number configurations for Yamaha Electric, Archtop, and Bass Guitars

Made in Japan, 1966-1984. For SG, SX, and BB series.

Made in Japan, 1984-1986:
Letter-letter-letter-letter-###. Four letters and a number, like so: LJQH013.
(See chart at the top of the page.) The first letter is the year; 1985. The second letter is the month; March. The third and fourth letters are the date; QH=01. The three numbers at the end are the unit number.

Made in Japan, 1984-1996:
Letter-letter-####. Two letters, four numbers, like so: MI0031.
The first number is the year; 1986. The second number is the month; February. The four numbers are the unit number; 31.

Made in Japan, 1986-1989:
#-letter-#####. 5I04013.
The first number is an internal code. The letter is the month; February (see chart). The next two numbers are the date; 4th. The last three numbers are the unit number; 13. There is no indication of year in this configuration–just “sometime between ’86 and ’89.

Made in Japan, 1995-1999:
######. Six numbers, like so: 610101.
The first number is the year; 1996. The next two numbers are the month; 10=October. The final three numbers are the unit number; 101.

Made in Japan, 1994-1997:
#-letter-letter-###. Like so: 7FM123.
The first number is the year; 1997. The letter (2nd position) is an internal code. The next letter (3rd position) is the month; in this case M=June (see chart.) The final three numbers are the unit number.

Made in Japan, 1997-:
#-letter-letter-####, like so: 8FJ0013.
The first number is the year; 1998. The letter (2nd position) is an internal code. the letter (3rd position) is the month; March (see chart.) The final four numbers are the unit number; 13.

Made in Japan, 1988:
Letter-letter-letter-letter-###, like so: SMQI123.
The first letter is an internal code. The second letter is the month; June. The third and fourth letters are the date; QI=02. So, June 2nd, 1988. The three numbers are the unit number; 123.

Made in Japan, 1989-2002:
Letter-letter-letter-letter-###, like so: SKJL321.
The first letter is an internal code (both I and S were used). The second letter is the month; K=April. The third letter is an internal code for Japan. The fourth letter is the year; L=1995. The three numbers at the end are the unit number.

Made in Japan, 2002-:
Letter-letter-letter-###-letter, like so: QJM111E.
The first and second letters are the year; QJ=03. The third letter is the month; M=June. The three numbers are the unit number; 111. The final letter is an internal code (could be E, F, I, or S.)

Made in Taiwan, 1984-2002:
Letter-letter-#####, like so: PH07123.
The first letter is the year; P=1999. The second letter is the month; H=January. The first two numbers (07 in this example) are the day; 7th. The final three numbers are the unit number; 123.

Hohner Professional Guitar Serial Numbers Pictures

Made in Taiwan, 2002-:
Letter-letter-letter-######, like so: QJM120013.
The first two letters are the year; QJ=03. The third letter is the month; M=June. The two numbers that follow are the day; 12th. The final four numbers are the unit number; 0013 (13).

Made in Koreaand Made in China, 2003-:
Letter-letter-letter-####-letter, like so: QKJ0011Y.
The first two letters are the year; QK=04 (see chart.) The third letter is the month; J=March. The four numbers that follow are the unit number; (00)11. The last number is an internal code (could be D, R, U, or Y.)

Believe it or not, this list does not cover all possible serial numbers. Hopefully, this will help many of you! Again, if you’re still having trouble, please contact Yamaha directly as we have posted all the info we have. Thanks!

Yamaha Corporation of America
6600 Orangethorpe Ave.
Buena Park, CA 90620
(714) 522-9011

Email Inquires:infostation@yamaha.com

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Hi,

Hohner began producing electric guitars. The Pro Harp was another model that was in Hohner's handmade. The bottom cover plate has the serial numbers from.

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Maybe you've already sold this, but in case you haven't I just want to drop in my 2 cents. These guitars are known to be very hard to date exactly (I have one myself and have spent a fair bit of time on the web researching them), but generally are agreed to date between mid-70s and mid-80s.

If you look on the Mylespaul.com forums you'll see that these guitars are very highly regarded by LP enthusiasts, and I've seen multiple mentions of 250-300 being something of a steal. Many of these threads are a few years old, and I get the sense a certain hype has built for these guitars, plus yours looks to be pristine. So I think you should be able to bring in well more than that.

Some of these Hohner LPs are made with the pancake mahogany construction, which I understand are the prized ones. On one of those MLP forum threads someone described that this construction is indicated by a single, very faint line which can be seen running along the middle of the edge of the guitar.

Hope you land a good deal for it, and it goes to someone who appreciates a fine instrument!

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- oh and if you want to sell the pickguard off that one i will definitely buy it from you, they are a pain to track down.

Hohner Professional Guitar Serial Numbers

• Hey hey,
  A fried of mine has aquired an old knackered hohner les paul - the finish has been changed and generally its a bit knackered (someone SANDED THE FRETS DOWN!!!)
  Anywho, a pic is attahed, i have more if you need them. Can anyone identify? Or tell me where i can trace the serial number?
  Many thanks

  things I do:
  Whisper in the Riot
  www.BrutallicA.co.uk
  www.rugbyrocks.co.uk
• Looks nice. I would refret it and just play it to death.

  'I don't want to be immortalized through my work. I want to be immortalized by not dying.' Woody Allen

• Comment

• Looks like it might be an L75.
  More than that I can't tell. Only that some mint examples are to be rarely found. some are the nicest looking LP's I've ever seen.

  Originally Posted by Expressway to yr Skull
  Some things just can't be apologized enough for. James Blunt is one of them.
• Its pretty hard to find info on these guitars. I have one (see attached pic). Great guitars especially since they are cheap.
  Mine has no serial no on the headstock but has a serial no on the control cavity plastic cover. Mine is the L59 model (which I assume is supposed to be based on a 59 Les Paul).
  I've also played a Hohner L90 which is a Les Paul Gold Top copy with p90s. This guitar was awesome too.
  Does yours have any writing on the truss rod cover? That is where mine has L59 written on it.
  So sorry I can't help with any more info than this. I've looked and come up empty, no one seems to know much about these. I'm pretty sure they were only made for a brief time in the eighties.
  My advice is to refret it. Great guitars.

  My dad says I've got more guitars than girlfriends
  Better dead than smeg!
• Nice guitar Pengrin! Do you play it much?
  The L90 really catches my eye. I'd love to have one of those.
  From what I've gathered the professional series were first made in Great Britain then production moved to Korea. I don't know anything about looking up serial numbers or anything.
• WOAAAH! That IS a nice guitar :-)
  Yeah , i reckon its gonna ge re-fretted, rebound, and may well have the inlays done, as it seems whoever had it before has replaced what was in there for PLASTIC. Not very well done either.
  It has a serial no on the back of the headstock (see attached pic), The truss rod cover is not there so no info on that. I may well have to buy this off the owner once its fixed - I don't reckon i'll ever afford a gibson - this may well be adequate, it sounds lovely :-)
  Penguin - how does yours compare to the real thing?

  things I do:
  Whisper in the Riot
  www.BrutallicA.co.uk
  www.rugbyrocks.co.uk
• It would probably cost as much or more than the guitar is worth to have the binding replaced. Refretting won't be cheap either but may be worth it. The inlay work could be costly as well.
• things I do:
  Whisper in the Riot
  www.BrutallicA.co.uk
  www.rugbyrocks.co.uk
• Thanks for the compliments on my guitar. It was the second electric I ever bought. At the time I bought it as I wanted an LP but couldn't afford a Gibson. OVer time I have come to realise how good a guitar it is.
  Compared to a Gibson I actually prefer mine. Not because of quality (I think Gibsons have slightly better quality) but because of the differences between a true LP and mine. Firstly the body is slightly thinner than a Gibby, not by much but it feels more comfortable to me. Mine has binding front and back on the body which I think looks great. Also the archtop on mine is not a solid top. It is flame maple but there is a hollow between the maple cap and the mahogony body. I like to think this helps with resonance and blah, blah, blah. I have no proof of this, just something I like to think.
  It weighs a ton too, its far heavier than any guitar I have ever played. This seems to always put the neck in the perfect playing position when strapped on.
  In short, its probably the best guitar I've ever played. I added the Bigsby since I really wanted a Bigsby at one stage. I think LPs with Bigsby's look fantastic. It also now has Kent Armstrong humbucker sized P90 pickups. These sound awesome.
  When I bought it, it had zebra humbuckers. THe sales guy told me they were Duncans, which at the time I believed but later realised he was full of ****************. They weren't the best sounding pickups. I tried many pickups in this guitar but liked the P90s in it best. Best balance of good sounding clean and dirty sounds.
  If you ever find one, buy it. I tried to buy an L90 of a guy I knew, bastard knew what I knew about them (that they are great) so he wouldn't sell it.

  My dad says I've got more guitars than girlfriends
  Better dead than smeg!
• excellent, then i'll definately make sure i casn get a hold of this one once its done :-)
  Out of interest, are bigsby's difficult/expensive to fit?

  things I do:
  Whisper in the Riot
  www.BrutallicA.co.uk
  www.rugbyrocks.co.uk

• Originally posted by Pengrin Also the archtop on mine is not a solid top. It is flame maple but there is a hollow between the maple cap and the mahogony body.

  
  This was common practice for a long time (could still be) on budget LP copies as it meant that a flat ply-piece could be used for the top and bent, not requiring carving out like a solid cap does.
  I think now most do have a solid cap carved from alder or similar with a maple veneer a la Epiphone instead (presumably advancements in CNCD have made this viable at the budget price point).

  MOTGLHC
  'We're the 1% that don't fit in and don't care.'
  Malcom McLaren 1977

• Originally posted by incurab1e excellent, then i'll definately make sure i casn get a hold of this one once its done :-) Out of interest, are bigsby's difficult/expensive to fit?

  
  Bigsby's aren't too hard or expensive to fit. The biggest cost with mine was buying the Bigsby. You can leave the holes where the tailpiece fits but I had my luthier fill them. Its fairly simple to fit one if you don't care about the holes from the old tailpiece. Simply fit it and screw it on. Its really quite straight forward. Depending on where the tailpiece sits on the guitar, you might have to remove the tailpiece bushes if they interfere with where the Bigsby sits.

  My dad says I've got more guitars than girlfriends
  Better dead than smeg!
• Nice, cheerz.
  I've never used a bigsby - how much play do they give you? And wht is the tuning stabiity like?
  Also, i am looking forward to playing some FILTH on thsi bad boy. Whiskey in the Jar is gonna be Oh So SWEET

  things I do:
  Whisper in the Riot
  www.BrutallicA.co.uk
  www.rugbyrocks.co.uk

• Originally posted by Pengrin Its pretty hard to find info on these guitars. I have one (see attached pic). Great guitars especially since they are cheap. Mine has no serial no on the headstock but has a serial no on the control cavity plastic cover. Mine is the L59 model (which I assume is supposed to be based on a 59 Les Paul). I've also played a Hohner L90 which is a Les Paul Gold Top copy with p90s. This guitar was awesome too. Does yours have any writing on the truss rod cover? That is where mine has L59 written on it. So sorry I can't help with any more info than this. I've looked and come up empty, no one seems to know much about these. I'm pretty sure they were only made for a brief time in the eighties. My advice is to refret it. Great guitars.

  
  Pengrin it looks like its the original plastic nut, mine worned out after one year.
  it's my first guitar, I bought it 11 years ago and it's still my main axe..it really needs a fret job
  I'm too lazy to take new pics; I replaced the EMG with the original HB and I also put the pickguard back.
  I'm addicted to its thin D-shape neck